Coming on the dog days of summer

We've enjoyed a cool spring, we Floridians, but soon will be faced with scorching summer heat. We'll be challenged to find food that blends well with a wide variety of wines while still offering a hint of refreshing cool. As April rolls into May, and May rolls into June, that challenge will become harder and harder to meet. However, one food family offers a nice balance, providing a culinary adaptability coupled with ingredients designed to beat suffocating heat. And where do we go to find this food family? The answer is Mexico. Beef Carnitas This recipe blends hearty stew meat with flavors distinct to Mexican dishes: lime and cilantro. It also provides a solid base for many culinary creations, including empanadas, tacos, and beef salads. It appeared in its original version in Cooking Light magazine. Hardware: A medium-sized stew pot or large Dutch oven, with a tight-fitting lid Ingredients: 2 tablespoons olive oil (separated) 1 large Spanish onion, chopped (can substitute yellow or white onions, but not Vidalia. A red onion might add too much heat) 3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 pounds beef stew meat, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 cup beef broth 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 large, unpeeled orange wedge

1. Begin by heating 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat
2. Add the chopped onion and sauté for about three minutes
3. Add the garlic cloves and sauté for another minute
4. Remove onions and garlic to a bowl on the side
5. Begin adding the stew meat
   • The stew meat should be sautéd in batches. You want to add enough meat to cover the bottom of the pot, sauté for approximately five minutes or until brown on all sides. A crucial step here is to activate the Maillard process, so you get a nice crust on the meat and on the bottom of the pot. When the first batch is browned, pull it out and start on the second. It should only take two or three batches to get everything done
6. Add the beef broth to deglaze the pot
• When you add the broth, it should sizzle and begin to soften the crust that has formed on the pot's bottom. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, work the bottom of the pot to get all that good tasting stuff off and into solution in the broth
7. Slide in the orange wedge
8. Add the sugar and red pepper
9. Re-add the onions, garlic and beef
10. Bring the mixture up to a boil and then reduce the heat to low or medium-low (depending on you cook top)
11. Cover and let simmer for 80 - 90 minutes
12. After that time, uncover the pot and raise the heat some, allowing some of the water to evaporate and the sauce to concentrate

Variation: instead of the orange wedge, you could try putting in a half-cup of your pairing wine. The alcohol will burn off and the fruit flavors in the wine will concentrate during the reduction process. Don't be afraid to experiment! The beef carnitas mixture can be set aside, reheated and will keep in the freezer, wrapped tightly, for up to three months On to the tacos While the beef carnitas is simmering, you have plenty of time to prepare taco fixin's. Remember, when trying to beat the spring heat, eschew the heavier TexMex ingredients like cheese and go for more traditional ingredients like lime and cilantro. For my table I used the following: Medium flour tortillas Traditional corn tortillas (to bring out some more flavor, you can heat these briefly in a skillet until they just begin to brown in places on one side, then wrap them in foil and keep them in a 200 degree (f) oven to keep them piping hot for your guests) Diced avocado Sliced tomato Sliced Spanish onion (to make the meal more wine friendly, I caramelized the onion to reduce its heat somewhat and to bring out some of its sweetness) Two limes, sliced into wedges Chopped cilantro Arrange all the ingredients on a plate and allow your guests to mix and match as they wish, making their own flavor combinations. What to pair it with? Dog Tail Vinyard's Fire Hydrant Red California Red Wine Color: Deep, lustrous red with just a hint of translucence that forecasts it's lighter body Nose: Big fruit with a hint of spice. Fruit aromas included many of the brighter reds--strawberry and raspberry--and the wine exhibited a slight candied aroma, perhaps vanilla. Palate: Lithe, supple tannins and a hint of alcohol heat (13%, but not too bad). Flavors included the expected red fruits, including plum, but the wine also had a refreshing crispness due to its tannins and acidity--like biting into a ripe red apple. Finish: The wine had a drying finish because of its tannins, but left a hint of that red plum flavor. An excellent accompaniment to food of all sorts. This is a fine drinking wine that would pair well with all kinds of menus. You'll notice the photographed bottle is empty. I can think of no better endorsement.

Sandwich Artist #5

Sandwich Artist: chicken, beef, peppers, onions, mushrooms in the middle of two potato skins, the classic bacon, cheese chives potato skins Sandwich Artist: huge potato skins from large baking potatoes Greg Turner: I am humbled, shocked and awed by your sandwich wizardry Sandwich Artist: could you imagine a menu with a potato skin sandwich on it Greg Turner: yes. yes I can Sandwich Artist: no low cal, no fat free, no low carb, no Atkins approved, Sandwich Artist: just straight up Fat Ass Sandwiches Sandwich Artist: oh, and on the menu, will have a Bitch Sandwich: one slice of wonderbread, folded over a slice of American cheese, slice of turkey and low fat mayo. Greg Turner: mayo on the side Sandwich Artist: nice touch Greg Turner: I try

Sandwich Artist #4

Sandwich Artist: here is a sandwich for you: Sandwich Artist: bagel, scrambled eggs with green pepper, onion and mushrooms, bacon, smoked sausage, Vermont sharp white cheddar Sandwich Artist: and the kicker, the inside of the bagel is scraped out, so the food kinda sits in a pocket Greg Turner: not bad at all Greg Turner: would be even better if you could wrap the two bagel halves in something so they wouldn't come apart Sandwich Artist: yes, was thinking of that Greg Turner: like, around the edges and through the hole Sandwich Artist: HAM!!!! Sandwich Artist: fucking ham steak Sandwich Artist: strip of ham steak, 4, wrapped around through bagel hole Sandwich Artist: like 4 spokes on wheel

Not your average game food

March Madness can take quite a toll on our culinary sensibilities. Night after night of nachos, hot dogs, burgers and pizza can build up (as can the cholesterol and fat), and even the most delicious of italian sausages, grilled and served with caramelized onions and sauteed peppers on a toasted--ok. That would probably never be old.

But March Madness also brackets the Spring Equinox, so I thought it might be an interesting exercise to make some lighter faire for the Gator's latest victory over UCLA.

Appetizer Plate

Finger food is a must. And while chips and dip are a crowd favorite, no one's going to turn down cheese and salami, especially if that cheese is a wonderfully flavorful, hearty goat's milk cheese, chevre.

Ingredients:

• Ciabatta bread
• Hard salami
• Chevré
• Olives (I used large green olives stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes)

This is all about the cheese, so get a good serving dish or large dinner place and place a disc of cheese right in the center. Slice the bread and arrange in a flower pattern around the cheese (I toasted about half the slices and arranged them on one side of the plate) Finish up by arranging the hard salami and olives in small groups around the plate and serve.

Artichoke Nachos (Steamed artichokes with salsa verde)

I altered a recipe from this month's Bon Appètit magazine to make this dish.

Salsa Verde:

• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons drained capers, rinsed
• 3 tablespoons chopped green onions
• 1/2 clove elephant garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves
• A pinch of crushed red pepper
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons whipping cream
• 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

Toss the parsley, capers, green onions, garlic, tarragon leaves, red pepper and vinegar into a blender or food processor (I used a hand mixer with the chopping blade attachment) and give those ingredients a whirl. When you're done, scoop the mixture into a bowl and whisk in the olive oil and cream. Set aside.

Set up a steaming rig: Many are fortunate enough to have one of those flying-saucer streamer racks that fit into the bottom of a pot. But you could use anything that would allow steam to flow while keeping the artichoke out of the water, even aluminium foil rolled into a ring and set in the bottom of the pot.

Get the rack, pot and water on the stove and bring the water to a boil. When it's boiling, reduce the heat to medium and place the artichoke(s) on the rack. Cover and let steam for about 30 minutes. Remove from the rack and let cool for about 10 minutes. Serve with the salsa verde or melted garlic butter.

Fresh Papaya Salad with Kumquat Vinaigrette and Feta

Dressing:

• A large handful of fresh kumquats (approx. 10. Substitute: the juice of two monroe lemons and 2 tablespoons of orange juice)
• 1 teaspoon light brown sugar
• Balsamic vinegar to taste

Juice the kumquats into a small ramekin Stir in the brown sugar, a little bit at a time, until thoroughly mixed in (less can be used, depending on your taste)
Begin drizzling in the balsamic vinegar slowly. It is easy to mix in too much. The taste should be bright, citrusy, but also slightly sweet with an additional hint of the savory. Experiment! Find the combination that works best for you.

Peel and seed a medium red papaya, then cut into bite-sized pieces. Transfer those pieces to a bowl Sprinkle with feta (optional--the feta will give the dish an additional flavor profile that might not be top of everyone's list) Splash on the dressing. Can be served cold or at room temperature.

What to pair it with? A grazing meal as varied as this is going to need a wine that's is highly versatile, and I know of no other more versatile wine than pinot noir. For this weekend's eating I chose a non-vintage pinot, Pinot Evil.

Pinot Evil, non vintage Vin de Pays de I'lle de Baute

Color: a dark, dusty ruby with none of the translucence or luminescence I normally associate with Pinot Noir

Nose: Absolute fruit. Very strong cherry and slight strawberry notes with a hint of some brightness--perhaps grass. Certainly had a green quality to it.

Palate: Light body and fairly high tannins given the rather lithe mouth feel. Definite fruit on the palate and some of the distinct minerality that comes with many old world wines.

Finish: very quick. Little lingering fruit, but does sweep the palate. One concern was the lingering alcohol heat I felt, something I don't normally associate with Pinot Noir.

While this wine was fair, it's probably not one I would buy again. Rather, I'd go to my old stand-by, the Rex Goliath NV Pinot Noir (California), a wine that consistently over-performs for its price point. I still haven't found a Pinot Noir that I would go to over my faithful Rex Goliath.

Sandwich Artist #3

Sandwich Artist: here's one for you Sandwich Artist: take Pepperidge Farm garlic bread Sandwich Artist: the whole loaf Sandwich Artist: and split it Sandwich Artist: then top with mozzz cheese, sausage, pepperoni, BBQ sauce and pulled pork Sandwich Artist: put it together, bake it, and voila Sandwich Artist: oh, with grilled portabello mushrooms laid over the top, that have been marinated in a balsamic, jalapeño pepper olive oil Sandwich Artist: just enough to flavor them Greg Turner: why is it you're not running a gourmet sandwich shop? Greg Turner: call it Sammy's

Sandwich Artist #2

Continuing the ongoing posts from my friend, the Sandwich Artist. This time we go with a sandwich that's more apt to fill a dessert plate than a lunch box (though a lunch box would not be out of the question): Sandwich #2 Sandwich Artist: another great sandwich, going in another direction, would be a peanut butter/chocolate sandwich with strawberry sauce and banana slices Sandwich Artist: on a honey wheat sweet bread Greg Turner: deep fried and served with honey? Greg Turner: a'la Monte Cristo sandwich? Sandwich Artist: with marshmallow topping Sandwich Artist: ahhh, yes, we could go that route

Sandwich Artist #1

Years ago, USA Today wrote up a small article about the Fat Darrell, voted America's best sandwich. My friend and I got to talking, and what followed was an onslaught of sandwiches too good to be put into the hands of mere mortals. But now, I provide to you transcripts of our conversations that occurred over an afternoon via Instant Messenger: Sandwich #1 Sandwich Artist: my goodness man Sandwich Artist: this is what america does Sandwich Artist: create fat fucking sandwiches Greg Turner: What would your ultimate sandwich have in it? Sandwich Artist: hmmmm...well, gravy #1 Sandwich Artist: heavy sour dough roll Sandwich Artist: cause it would need to hold the gravy Sandwich Artist: ribeye steak, mashed potatoes and bacon Sandwich Artist: and provolone cheese Sandwich Artist: melted on the top, to give it a cap that kinda holds things in Greg Turner: an excellent sandwich An excellent sandwich indeed.

Rawson's Retreat Merlot

Rawson's Retreat
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

Australian winery Penfold's released Rawson's Retreat to provide consumers a solid, entry-level wine. It's friendly, jammy and approachable. And most importantly, it's available for less than $10 a bottle. Quick Tasting Notes Rawson's Retreat Merlot, 2006 Color: A deep red-violet, inky in the center and lightening to a rich, translucent ruby color near the edges. Nose: Very fragrant, exhibiting succulent strawberry, slight blueberry and faint rhubarb aromas. Palate: The wine has supple mouth feel and a nice balance in its flavors, though the thin tannins will prevent it from standing up to heavier foods. Finish: The finish was surprisingly long, sweeping the palate but leaving subtle, lingering fruits. Overall this wine is not going to win monumental accolades, but it's a perfectly serviceable, approachable wine and provides a nice introduction to Penfold's new-world style.

Balsamic Glazed Tuna
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

What to pair it with? Balsamic glazed tuna, of course! The wine's subtle flavors and mild tannins paired perfectly with this slightly sweet, wonderfully lively dish.

Potato Pups -- Fair Food Comes Home for Dinner

Some time ago, I told you all about fried coke, the latest in a long line of foods fried up by carnies. Their search for battered opportunities never seems to wane, but I've not yet seen fried mashed potatoes. We call them Potato Pups. To make them, start with mashed potatoes:

There are seven
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

• Begin with a half dozen potatoes--any variety should be fine
• Peel the potatoes, and put the potatoes in a boiling pot
• Put enough water in the pot to cover the potatoes and salt liberally
• Place the pot on the stove over high heat and bring the water to a boil
• After about seven minutes, begin checking the potatoes by poking them with a fork
• When the fork enters the potatoes easily, they are done
• Drain the potatoes and mash them using a plain wire masher
  (how much work you put in will determine how smooth your potatoes will be. Keep in mind, however, that you're going to want them to hang together when you're frying them)
• After you've mashed the potatoes, you can mix in additional ingredients (For the Potato Pups, my dinner host mixed in some finely shredded cheddar cheese)
• Roll the mashed potatoes into balls--about half a golf-ball size worked best for us
• Heat oil to 325 degrees in fryer or dutch oven or large pot
• While waiting for the oil to heat, roll the potato balls in seasoned flour (for a special treat, you can grind instant potato flakes and try using those as a covering)
• Carefully lower the coated potato balls into the oil and cook for about 2 minutes
• Use a slotted spoon to remove the potato balls from the oil and increase the heat (medium-high should be fine)
• When the oil reaches about 350 degrees (or a little higher) lower the potato balls back in to crisp the outsides
• Remove the potato balls from the oil and drain on paper towels or an inverted cooling rack
• Serve with sour cream, bacon bits, broccoli, or whatever you normally use to doctor your potatoes

The potato pups are a wonderful complement to a casual evening of rented movies or good conversation. We enjoyed them as part of a catch-as-can meal that included french bread, pizza, and a fresh papaya served with a bright, flavorful dressing:

Mix 1/2 cup fresh kumquat juice and 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar with a 1/2 teaspoon of light brown sugar. Mix vigorously.

What to pair it with?
Zinfandel usually pairs well with all kinds of food, and tonight's zinfandel was no different. Seven Deadly Zins represents seven of the Lodi appelation's best wineries combining their crop to make a single, very drinkable wine. Seven Deadly Zins won't win any awards, but it is extremely friendly, mellow and jammy, and has lithe tannins and little alcohol heat. Being such an approachable wine, I'm sure you could serve it at most casual gatherings and have a real hit on your hands.

The Instersection of Food and Science

The fine folks at Epicurious lead me to News for Curious Cooks, a food/science blog that looks very interesting:

Here at News for Curious Cooks I'm filing brief reports from the intersection of food and science. It’s a lively neighborhood these days. There’s a constant influx of new information in food chemistry and microbiology, agriculture and manufacturing, and in human perception and health. I glean items from current technical publications and scientific meetings, from conversations with cooks and scientists, and from questions that come up in my own kitchen in the San Francisco Bay area. --Harold McGee

Mr. McGee is the author of On Food & Cooking: The Science & Lore of the Kitchen, a fine book and one that many cooks consider the one must-have in the kitchen.