Sandwich Artist #4

Sandwich Artist: here is a sandwich for you: Sandwich Artist: bagel, scrambled eggs with green pepper, onion and mushrooms, bacon, smoked sausage, Vermont sharp white cheddar Sandwich Artist: and the kicker, the inside of the bagel is scraped out, so the food kinda sits in a pocket Greg Turner: not bad at all Greg Turner: would be even better if you could wrap the two bagel halves in something so they wouldn't come apart Sandwich Artist: yes, was thinking of that Greg Turner: like, around the edges and through the hole Sandwich Artist: HAM!!!! Sandwich Artist: fucking ham steak Sandwich Artist: strip of ham steak, 4, wrapped around through bagel hole Sandwich Artist: like 4 spokes on wheel

Not your average game food

March Madness can take quite a toll on our culinary sensibilities. Night after night of nachos, hot dogs, burgers and pizza can build up (as can the cholesterol and fat), and even the most delicious of italian sausages, grilled and served with caramelized onions and sauteed peppers on a toasted--ok. That would probably never be old.

But March Madness also brackets the Spring Equinox, so I thought it might be an interesting exercise to make some lighter faire for the Gator's latest victory over UCLA.

Appetizer Plate

Finger food is a must. And while chips and dip are a crowd favorite, no one's going to turn down cheese and salami, especially if that cheese is a wonderfully flavorful, hearty goat's milk cheese, chevre.

Ingredients:

• Ciabatta bread
• Hard salami
• Chevré
• Olives (I used large green olives stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes)

This is all about the cheese, so get a good serving dish or large dinner place and place a disc of cheese right in the center. Slice the bread and arrange in a flower pattern around the cheese (I toasted about half the slices and arranged them on one side of the plate) Finish up by arranging the hard salami and olives in small groups around the plate and serve.

Artichoke Nachos (Steamed artichokes with salsa verde)

I altered a recipe from this month's Bon Appètit magazine to make this dish.

Salsa Verde:

• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons drained capers, rinsed
• 3 tablespoons chopped green onions
• 1/2 clove elephant garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves
• A pinch of crushed red pepper
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons whipping cream
• 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

Toss the parsley, capers, green onions, garlic, tarragon leaves, red pepper and vinegar into a blender or food processor (I used a hand mixer with the chopping blade attachment) and give those ingredients a whirl. When you're done, scoop the mixture into a bowl and whisk in the olive oil and cream. Set aside.

Set up a steaming rig: Many are fortunate enough to have one of those flying-saucer streamer racks that fit into the bottom of a pot. But you could use anything that would allow steam to flow while keeping the artichoke out of the water, even aluminium foil rolled into a ring and set in the bottom of the pot.

Get the rack, pot and water on the stove and bring the water to a boil. When it's boiling, reduce the heat to medium and place the artichoke(s) on the rack. Cover and let steam for about 30 minutes. Remove from the rack and let cool for about 10 minutes. Serve with the salsa verde or melted garlic butter.

Fresh Papaya Salad with Kumquat Vinaigrette and Feta

Dressing:

• A large handful of fresh kumquats (approx. 10. Substitute: the juice of two monroe lemons and 2 tablespoons of orange juice)
• 1 teaspoon light brown sugar
• Balsamic vinegar to taste

Juice the kumquats into a small ramekin Stir in the brown sugar, a little bit at a time, until thoroughly mixed in (less can be used, depending on your taste)
Begin drizzling in the balsamic vinegar slowly. It is easy to mix in too much. The taste should be bright, citrusy, but also slightly sweet with an additional hint of the savory. Experiment! Find the combination that works best for you.

Peel and seed a medium red papaya, then cut into bite-sized pieces. Transfer those pieces to a bowl Sprinkle with feta (optional--the feta will give the dish an additional flavor profile that might not be top of everyone's list) Splash on the dressing. Can be served cold or at room temperature.

What to pair it with? A grazing meal as varied as this is going to need a wine that's is highly versatile, and I know of no other more versatile wine than pinot noir. For this weekend's eating I chose a non-vintage pinot, Pinot Evil.

Pinot Evil, non vintage Vin de Pays de I'lle de Baute

Color: a dark, dusty ruby with none of the translucence or luminescence I normally associate with Pinot Noir

Nose: Absolute fruit. Very strong cherry and slight strawberry notes with a hint of some brightness--perhaps grass. Certainly had a green quality to it.

Palate: Light body and fairly high tannins given the rather lithe mouth feel. Definite fruit on the palate and some of the distinct minerality that comes with many old world wines.

Finish: very quick. Little lingering fruit, but does sweep the palate. One concern was the lingering alcohol heat I felt, something I don't normally associate with Pinot Noir.

While this wine was fair, it's probably not one I would buy again. Rather, I'd go to my old stand-by, the Rex Goliath NV Pinot Noir (California), a wine that consistently over-performs for its price point. I still haven't found a Pinot Noir that I would go to over my faithful Rex Goliath.

Sandwich Artist #3

Sandwich Artist: here's one for you Sandwich Artist: take Pepperidge Farm garlic bread Sandwich Artist: the whole loaf Sandwich Artist: and split it Sandwich Artist: then top with mozzz cheese, sausage, pepperoni, BBQ sauce and pulled pork Sandwich Artist: put it together, bake it, and voila Sandwich Artist: oh, with grilled portabello mushrooms laid over the top, that have been marinated in a balsamic, jalapeño pepper olive oil Sandwich Artist: just enough to flavor them Greg Turner: why is it you're not running a gourmet sandwich shop? Greg Turner: call it Sammy's

Sandwich Artist #2

Continuing the ongoing posts from my friend, the Sandwich Artist. This time we go with a sandwich that's more apt to fill a dessert plate than a lunch box (though a lunch box would not be out of the question): Sandwich #2 Sandwich Artist: another great sandwich, going in another direction, would be a peanut butter/chocolate sandwich with strawberry sauce and banana slices Sandwich Artist: on a honey wheat sweet bread Greg Turner: deep fried and served with honey? Greg Turner: a'la Monte Cristo sandwich? Sandwich Artist: with marshmallow topping Sandwich Artist: ahhh, yes, we could go that route

Sandwich Artist #1

Years ago, USA Today wrote up a small article about the Fat Darrell, voted America's best sandwich. My friend and I got to talking, and what followed was an onslaught of sandwiches too good to be put into the hands of mere mortals. But now, I provide to you transcripts of our conversations that occurred over an afternoon via Instant Messenger: Sandwich #1 Sandwich Artist: my goodness man Sandwich Artist: this is what america does Sandwich Artist: create fat fucking sandwiches Greg Turner: What would your ultimate sandwich have in it? Sandwich Artist: hmmmm...well, gravy #1 Sandwich Artist: heavy sour dough roll Sandwich Artist: cause it would need to hold the gravy Sandwich Artist: ribeye steak, mashed potatoes and bacon Sandwich Artist: and provolone cheese Sandwich Artist: melted on the top, to give it a cap that kinda holds things in Greg Turner: an excellent sandwich An excellent sandwich indeed.

Rawson's Retreat Merlot

Rawson's Retreat
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

Australian winery Penfold's released Rawson's Retreat to provide consumers a solid, entry-level wine. It's friendly, jammy and approachable. And most importantly, it's available for less than $10 a bottle. Quick Tasting Notes Rawson's Retreat Merlot, 2006 Color: A deep red-violet, inky in the center and lightening to a rich, translucent ruby color near the edges. Nose: Very fragrant, exhibiting succulent strawberry, slight blueberry and faint rhubarb aromas. Palate: The wine has supple mouth feel and a nice balance in its flavors, though the thin tannins will prevent it from standing up to heavier foods. Finish: The finish was surprisingly long, sweeping the palate but leaving subtle, lingering fruits. Overall this wine is not going to win monumental accolades, but it's a perfectly serviceable, approachable wine and provides a nice introduction to Penfold's new-world style.

Balsamic Glazed Tuna
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

What to pair it with? Balsamic glazed tuna, of course! The wine's subtle flavors and mild tannins paired perfectly with this slightly sweet, wonderfully lively dish.

Potato Pups -- Fair Food Comes Home for Dinner

Some time ago, I told you all about fried coke, the latest in a long line of foods fried up by carnies. Their search for battered opportunities never seems to wane, but I've not yet seen fried mashed potatoes. We call them Potato Pups. To make them, start with mashed potatoes:

There are seven
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

• Begin with a half dozen potatoes--any variety should be fine
• Peel the potatoes, and put the potatoes in a boiling pot
• Put enough water in the pot to cover the potatoes and salt liberally
• Place the pot on the stove over high heat and bring the water to a boil
• After about seven minutes, begin checking the potatoes by poking them with a fork
• When the fork enters the potatoes easily, they are done
• Drain the potatoes and mash them using a plain wire masher
  (how much work you put in will determine how smooth your potatoes will be. Keep in mind, however, that you're going to want them to hang together when you're frying them)
• After you've mashed the potatoes, you can mix in additional ingredients (For the Potato Pups, my dinner host mixed in some finely shredded cheddar cheese)
• Roll the mashed potatoes into balls--about half a golf-ball size worked best for us
• Heat oil to 325 degrees in fryer or dutch oven or large pot
• While waiting for the oil to heat, roll the potato balls in seasoned flour (for a special treat, you can grind instant potato flakes and try using those as a covering)
• Carefully lower the coated potato balls into the oil and cook for about 2 minutes
• Use a slotted spoon to remove the potato balls from the oil and increase the heat (medium-high should be fine)
• When the oil reaches about 350 degrees (or a little higher) lower the potato balls back in to crisp the outsides
• Remove the potato balls from the oil and drain on paper towels or an inverted cooling rack
• Serve with sour cream, bacon bits, broccoli, or whatever you normally use to doctor your potatoes

The potato pups are a wonderful complement to a casual evening of rented movies or good conversation. We enjoyed them as part of a catch-as-can meal that included french bread, pizza, and a fresh papaya served with a bright, flavorful dressing:

Mix 1/2 cup fresh kumquat juice and 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar with a 1/2 teaspoon of light brown sugar. Mix vigorously.

What to pair it with?
Zinfandel usually pairs well with all kinds of food, and tonight's zinfandel was no different. Seven Deadly Zins represents seven of the Lodi appelation's best wineries combining their crop to make a single, very drinkable wine. Seven Deadly Zins won't win any awards, but it is extremely friendly, mellow and jammy, and has lithe tannins and little alcohol heat. Being such an approachable wine, I'm sure you could serve it at most casual gatherings and have a real hit on your hands.

The Instersection of Food and Science

The fine folks at Epicurious lead me to News for Curious Cooks, a food/science blog that looks very interesting:

Here at News for Curious Cooks I'm filing brief reports from the intersection of food and science. It’s a lively neighborhood these days. There’s a constant influx of new information in food chemistry and microbiology, agriculture and manufacturing, and in human perception and health. I glean items from current technical publications and scientific meetings, from conversations with cooks and scientists, and from questions that come up in my own kitchen in the San Francisco Bay area. --Harold McGee

Mr. McGee is the author of On Food & Cooking: The Science & Lore of the Kitchen, a fine book and one that many cooks consider the one must-have in the kitchen.

Deconstructed Paella

This past week my La Fonera wireless router arrived, and in celebration, I invited my dad over and cooked up a deconstructed paella. I wanted to make sure there was something for everyone, and with as many differing tastes as there in the household, I knew a traditional paella was out of the question.

Deconstructed Paella 01
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

I began by making a pork roast:

• Season the roast on each side with 1tsp salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, and a generous shake of paprika.
• Put 2 tablespoons of olive oil and two minced garlic cloves into a skillet and heat it over medium high until the garlic begins to cook (it will become slightly translucent).
  !! Watch out !! Garlic can brown very easily, and some people think the taste becomes too strong when it does.
• Brown the roast on each side for about 4 minutes in the skillet,
• Then move the roast to a shallow roasting pan and into a 350 degree oven.
• Leave it be fo @22 minutes per pound.
  (Mine was a 2.26 pound roast, so I set the time for 50 minutes)

While the pork was roasting, I set about gathering up the rest of the ingredients:

• Scallops
• Large shrimp
• Chorizo sausage
• Red bell peppers sliced into thin strips
• Fresh green peas
• Saffron yellow rice

I cooked the chorizo, which I'd brought pre-packaged from the local market, by following the directions on the package. I just heated the chorizo in a pan. When it was done, I wrapped it in foil and set it aside, and kept the pan over the heat, set to low.

This is crucial--you want to keep all the flavor from the chorizo in the pan you cooked it in, so don't go cleaning the pan too quickly.

Immediately following that, I cooked the rice according to the directions on the package--it's perfectly serviceable rice. If you feel like making it from scratch, I'm sure there are recipes to be found.

When the rice was finished, I moved the heat of the chorizo pan up to medium-high and quickly sauteed the red bell pepper strips and searched the scallops and shrimp--about 60 seconds on each side. Scallops and shrimp cook very quickly, and it's important that they are not over done. As equally important is to cook them in the chorizo juices! This gives even the delicate scallops a rich, earthy flavor that really combines well with their usual buttery subtleties.

Once I had cooked everything, I plated the pork and seafood in a ring on a large serving dish and piled the peppers and peas in the middle. At the table, I coupled the serving dish with a big bowl of the saffron rice, and we each got to pick and choose the ingredients we enjoyed most.

What to pair it with?
Garnacha, of course! Garnacha is the Spanish word for grenache, and it is Spain's grape of choice. My own wine of choice when it comes to this bold, spicy grape is Las Rocas, an inexpensive Spanish wine that always seems to deliver consistent results. Alas, my local wine merchant had gone through their supply of Las Rocas, so I had to settle for a Bonny Doon 2004 Clos de Gilroy California grenache. Meh. The wine was very drinkable with interesting aromas and subtle fruit, but it lacked the tannic backbone to really stand up to the succulent pork and charred, smoky shrimp.

Pan-seared salmon served with parmesan cream sauce

The general wisdom concerning sauces is go slow. Slow heat, slow mixing, and slow preparation will enable you to create smooth, delicious sauces brimming with flavor but relatively free of lumps. This weekend I thought about making a parmesan sauce to have with grilled salmon and bow-tie pasta. It worked well, and even carried over to the next morning.

Pan-seared salmon served on bow-tie pasta with capers and parmesan cream sauce

Materials:

• A medium skillet for cooking the salmon
• A small sauce pan for the sauce
• A large pot to cook the pasta

Ingredients:

• 1 salmon fillet
• 1 box bow-tie pasta
• 2 cups milk
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 1 cup (approx.) parmesan cheese
• capers
• finely chopped chives

Set your water to boil in the large pot according to the directions on the pasta packaging--remember to liberally salt the pasta water as it will be only chance you have to season the pasta.

Next start on your sauce by making a roux

• Melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Slowly whisk in 1 tablespoon flour, combining a little at a time. (if you dump in the whole tablespoon, your roux will end up being lumpy)
• Into the roux, slowly mix up to 2 cups milk. Again, just a little at a time or the mixture will end up lumpy. A good whisk helps immensely.
• Finally, slowly mix in a small handful of shredded parmesan cheese.
• Keep the mixture warm over medium-low to low heat.

While the sauce warms, your water should be ready and you can dump in the pasta. Cook the pasta according to the directions on the box (generally dry bow-tie pasta should boil for 12 minutes)

• Place the skillet on a burner and heat it to medium-high. Make sure it's plenty hot before you place your salmon on it to sear.
• Liberally season the salmon with salt and pepper (and garlic, if you're a fan)
• Place the salmon fillet in the skillet and let it sit for about two minutes carefully flip the salmon using a long, flexible spatula or a combination of wooden spoon and tongs--the salmon will begin to flake at this point, and you want to keep it together)
• Sear on the other side about 1.5 - two minutes. If you look at the end of the fillet, you should see the salmon is transparent all the way through.

Combine the pasta and sauce and plate, divide the salmon fillet between two people, sprinkle with capers and a smattering of chives, and enjoy.

What to pair it with?

Muir Wood pinot noir 2005
Originally uploaded by greg.turner.

The strong flavors of salmon lend themselves to a wide variety of wines. And with a cooking method like pan searing, you can be assured of some of the strongest flavors possible. This dish would pair well with a number of wines, most notably a solid pinot noir. I paired it with the 2005 Muir Wood pinot noir. This wine has a light ruby color and produces distinct cherry and strawberry aromas with slight touches of citrus and evergreen. The platte produces a solid balance of fruit-forward flavors mixed with a cherry tartness from its light acidity. The tannins are fairly well-balanced and the finish is fairly long, producing light fruit flavors long after the sip has been swallowed.